Comme des Garçons, founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, stands as a monument to avant-garde fashion. The brand, which translates to “Like Boys” in French, started in Tokyo, marking its identity with revolutionary designs and an unconventional approach. Rei Kawakubo, originally from Japan, studied fine arts and literature before diving into the fashion world. Her lack of formal training in fashion design contributed to her distinct and innovative style. The early years saw Comme des Garçons focusing on deconstructed garments, often using asymmetry, unusual fabrics, and a monochromatic palette. Kawakubo’s first major show in Paris in 1981 cemented the brand’s reputation for defying traditional fashion norms. The debut was met with mixed reactions, but it undeniably set the stage for Comme des Garçons’ future in the global fashion arena.
Breaking Boundaries in the 1980s:
The 1980s were a crucial period for Comme des Garçons. Kawakubo continued to challenge the fashion status quo with collections that blurred the lines between art and fashion. Her designs often questioned societal norms, especially those related to gender and beauty. This decade also saw the expansion of the brand, with new lines like Comme des Garçons Homme and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, catering specifically to menswear. Collaborations with artists and designers became more frequent, reflecting the brand’s interdisciplinary approach.
The Global Expansion in the 1990s:
The 1990s marked Comme des Garçons’ expansion into global markets. The brand opened flagship stores in major cities like New York, Paris, and London, bringing its unique aesthetic to a wider audience. This period also saw the introduction of the PLAY line, known for its iconic heart logo designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski. The PLAY line became an instant hit, blending the brand’s avant-garde spirit with more accessible and casual designs. The 1990s also witnessed the launch of Comme des Garçons fragrances, which have become a staple in the brand’s product lineup.
The Turn of the Millennium:
As the brand entered the 2000s, it continued to innovate and surprise. The decade saw the launch of Comme des Garçons Wallets and the expansion of the fragrance line, including the popular Series 3: Incense. The brand’s shows continued to be highly anticipated events in the fashion calendar, known for their theatrical presentations and thought-provoking designs. Rei Kawakubo’s influence on the fashion world grew, with many young designers citing her as a major inspiration.
Innovations in the 2010s:
The 2010s were marked by continued experimentation and collaboration. One of the most notable partnerships was with high street brand H&M in 2008, which brought Comme des Garçons’ avant-garde designs to a broader audience. This period also saw the brand collaborating with Nike, creating unique and innovative footwear that blended sportswear with high fashion. The decade was also significant for the launch of the Dover Street Market retail concept, created by Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe. Dover Street Market became a hub for avant-garde fashion, showcasing not only Comme des Garçons but also other cutting-edge designers.
Cultural Impact and Legacy:
Comme des Garçons’ impact on the fashion industry is undeniable. Rei Kawakubo’s vision has challenged and redefined fashion norms, influencing generations of designers. The brand’s commitment to innovation and creativity has earned it a loyal following and critical acclaim. Comme des Garçons has also made significant contributions to fashion as a form of cultural expression, using clothing to challenge societal norms and provoke thought. Kawakubo’s work has been the subject of numerous exhibitions, including a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2017, which celebrated her groundbreaking contributions to fashion.
Current Directions:
In recent years, Comme des Garçons continues to push the boundaries of fashion. The brand remains at the forefront of innovation, constantly exploring new ideas and challenging conventions. Rei Kawakubo’s influence extends beyond the fashion world, impacting art, design, and culture. The brand’s current collections continue to surprise and inspire, maintaining its reputation as a leader in avant-garde fashion.