The world of fashion has always been a playground for self-expression, where creativity meets the pulse of society’s ever-changing tastes. Few brands embody this ethos more profoundly than Comme des Garçons. Since its inception, the brand has not just made a name for itself by creating clothes that break the mold but by upending the very conventions of fashion. To understand the philosophy behind Comme des Garçons, one must first examine the vision of its founder, Rei Kawakubo. This philosophy is more than an approach to design; it is a way of thinking that rejects conformity and embraces imperfection, asymmetry, and even ugliness. Through an exploration of Kawakubo’s background, the ethos of the brand, and its impact on the fashion industry, we can begin to understand why Comme des Garçons has become a symbol of avant-garde fashion and intellectual design.
Rejecting Norms to Redefine Fashion:
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçon in Tokyo in 1969. From the very beginning, her approach to fashion was different. Kawakubo did not come from a traditional fashion background; in fact, she studied fine arts and literature before turning to fashion. This lack of formal training in fashion allowed her to approach clothing design without the limitations imposed by conventional fashion education. Kawakubo has often expressed that she designs from a place of curiosity and rebellion. She does not seek to please the masses or adhere to what is considered beautiful by societal standards. Instead, she seeks to challenge her audience’s perception of what fashion can be. The name of the brand itself, which translates to “like boys” in French, hints at this rebellious attitude. It suggests a willingness to blur gender lines, challenge societal norms, and provoke thought. From the very beginning, Comme des Garçons was never meant to fit into a neat category.
Deconstruction as a Core Element of Comme des Garçons:
One of the most defining characteristics of Kawakubo’s design philosophy is deconstruction. The idea of deconstruction in fashion is a concept borrowed from the world of philosophy and critical theory, particularly from the work of French philosopher Jacques Derrida. In fashion, deconstruction refers to taking apart traditional garments and reassembling them in new, often unconventional ways. Kawakubo’s use of deconstruction has become a hallmark of her work. Her garments often feature unfinished hems, asymmetrical cuts, and garments that seem to fall apart or defy traditional construction methods. In doing so, Kawakubo questions the very nature of clothing. What is a shirt if it no longer follows the traditional rules of how a shirt should be constructed? What happens when a garment becomes something else entirely? Through these questions, Kawakubo invites the wearer to reconsider the relationship between body and clothing. This approach to design forces people to see clothing as more than just functional or aesthetic. Clothing becomes an intellectual exercise, a conversation between designer, garment, and wearer.
The Importance of Imperfection in Comme des Garçons:
In a world that often celebrates perfection, Rei Kawakubo’s philosophy is a radical departure. She embraces imperfection in her designs, challenging the very notion of what is considered beautiful. This philosophy is evident in her choice of fabrics, the asymmetry of her garments, and the unconventional silhouettes she creates. Rather than focusing on creating clothing that flatters the body, Kawakubo’s designs often obscure or distort it. This rejection of traditional beauty standards is a core part of her philosophy. For Kawakubo, beauty can be found in what is imperfect, incomplete, or unusual. By rejecting conventional ideas of beauty, Comme des Garçons opens up a new space where the wearer can express individuality, creativity, and authenticity.
Breaking Gender Norms in Fashion:
Comme des Garçons has long been a brand that challenges gender norms in fashion. Long before the concept of gender-neutral clothing became a trend, Kawakubo was already blurring the lines between men’s and women’s fashion. She designs clothing that can be worn by anyone, regardless of gender. In fact, many of her collections have featured women wearing suits or oversized, masculine garments, and men in skirts or dresses. This approach to fashion reflects a broader philosophical belief in the fluidity of identity. For Kawakubo, clothing is not about reinforcing societal expectations of gender, but about allowing people to express themselves freely, without being confined to traditional gender roles. This radical approach to fashion has had a significant influence on the industry as a whole, paving the way for more designers to explore androgyny and gender fluidity in their work.
The Art of Storytelling Through Fashion Shows:
One of the most striking aspects of the Comme des Garçons brand is how it uses fashion shows as a medium for storytelling. Kawakubo’s runway shows are often more akin to performance art than traditional fashion presentations. Rather than simply showcasing her clothing, Kawakubo creates immersive experiences that provoke thought and emotion. The music, lighting, and set design of her shows are all carefully crafted to evoke a particular mood or theme. Her fashion shows often leave audiences puzzled, uncomfortable, or moved. They challenge the viewer to think beyond the surface of the garments and consider the larger narrative or concept that Kawakubo is presenting. This approach to fashion as a form of storytelling is another key element of the philosophy behind Comme des Garçons. Fashion, for Kawakubo, is not just about making clothes—it is about communicating ideas, emotions, and concepts. Each collection tells a story, and each piece of clothing is a part of that narrative.
The Relationship Between Comme des Garçons and Art:
Another important aspect of the philosophy behind Comme des Garçons is the brand’s relationship with the art world. Kawakubo has often expressed that she sees herself as an artist rather than a traditional fashion designer. Her approach to fashion is deeply conceptual, and many of her collections can be seen as works of art in their own right. This connection to the art world is further reinforced by the fact that Comme des Garçons has often collaborated with artists and has exhibited its work in galleries and museums. In 2017, Kawakubo became the second living designer ever to have a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The exhibition, titled “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” showcased her work as a form of art that exists in the space between fashion and sculpture. This blurring of boundaries between fashion and art is a key part of the philosophy behind Comme des Garçons. It reinforces the idea that fashion is not just about clothing but is a medium for expressing deeper ideas and emotions.
Comme des Garçons as a Symbol of Intellectual Fashion:
One of the reasons why Comme des Garçons has become such an influential brand is its position as a symbol of intellectual fashion. Unlike many fashion brands that focus primarily on aesthetics or trends, Comme des Garçons engages in a deeper dialogue with its audience. Kawakubo’s designs often challenge the viewer to think critically about the nature of fashion, beauty, and identity. Her work raises questions about the role of fashion in society, the relationship between clothing and the body, and the ways in which fashion can be used to challenge societal norms. This intellectual approach to fashion has made Comme des Garçons a favorite among artists, academics, and thinkers. It is a brand that appeals to those who see fashion as a form of intellectual and creative expression, rather than just a means of adornment.
The Business Philosophy of Comme des Garçons:
While Comme des Garçons is known for its avant-garde designs, the brand has also been incredibly successful from a business standpoint. This success can be attributed in large part to Kawakubo’s unique approach to business. Unlike many designers who are primarily focused on creativity, Kawakubo has always been deeply involved in the business side of her brand. She is known for being a hands-on manager, overseeing everything from design to production to marketing. This level of involvement has allowed her to maintain a high level of control over the brand’s image and direction. In addition to this, Comme des Garçons has also been incredibly innovative in its approach to retail. The brand’s flagship store in Tokyo, known as the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum, is a concept store that blends art, fashion, and retail in a way that is entirely unique. This approach to retail has been replicated in other cities around the world, creating a shopping experience that is unlike any other. By merging the worlds of fashion, art, and commerce, Comme des Garçons has created a business model that is both successful and philosophically aligned with Kawakubo’s vision.
Comme des Garçons and Collaboration:
Another important aspect of the Comme des Garçons philosophy is the brand’s willingness to collaborate with other designers, artists, and brands. Over the years, Comme des Garçons has collaborated with a wide range of companies, from high-end luxury brands to streetwear labels. These collaborations have allowed the brand to reach a wider audience and to experiment with new ideas and materials. One of the most famous collaborations was with Nike, which resulted in a line of sneakers that combined Kawakubo’s avant-garde aesthetic with Nike’s sportswear expertise. This willingness to collaborate reflects Kawakubo’s belief in the importance of creativity and experimentation. By working with other brands and designers, Kawakubo is able to push the boundaries of what fashion can be, while also staying true to her own vision.
Comme des Garçons and Its Influence on the Fashion Industry:
The influence of Comme des Garçons on the fashion industry cannot be overstated. Kawakubo’s radical approach to design has inspired countless designers, both established and emerging. Her willingness to challenge conventions and push the boundaries of fashion has opened up new possibilities for what fashion can be. Many of today’s most innovative designers, such as Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, and Demna Gvasalia, have cited Kawakubo as a major influence on their work. Beyond individual designers, Comme des Garçons has also had a profound impact on the fashion industry as a whole. The brand’s rejection of traditional beauty standards, its embrace of imperfection, and its willingness to challenge societal norms have all contributed to a broader shift in the fashion industry toward more inclusive and diverse representations of beauty. In this way, Comme des Garçons has helped to shape the future of fashion, pushing it in new and exciting directions.
The Enduring Legacy of Comme des Garçons:
As we look toward the future, it is clear that the philosophy behind Comme des Garçons will continue to influence and inspire the fashion world. Rei Kawakubo’s radical vision has left an indelible mark on the industry, challenging designers, consumers, and society at large to think differently about fashion. By rejecting conformity and embracing imperfection, Comme des Garçons has created a space for intellectual and creative expression that is unparalleled in the fashion world. This philosophy will undoubtedly continue to resonate with future generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts, ensuring that Comme des Garçons remains a symbol of avant-garde fashion and intellectual design for years to come.
